Tuesday, November 2, 2010

"I'm ok, you're ok, to hell with everything else..."

Hello and sorry for the rather lengthy post but I do hope you'll take the time to read the whole thing now!
So a brief recap for those of you who may not have heard, from late evening on Friday to the wee hours on Sunday morning, Hurricane Tomas hit St. Lucia. More than just being a category 1 (I've heard it reached 2 at some point, but can't find that in writing) hurricane, folks are saying that this is the worst hurricane devastation to hit the country in over 20 years. There are a number of reasons why this was so disastrous- here is what happened and why:

#1- Preparation and warning
Until later Friday afternoon, Tomas was not even designated a tropical storm, and was expected to pass a lot further south. This made me feel rather silly on Friday afternoon for going to the grocery and stocking up on fresh water and non-perishable food, but I figured I'd follow the "better safe than sorry" adage. Folks around here were entirely nonchalant about the situation, and there were no locally broadcast warnings. One neighbor even laughed at me and said we would only get a little bit of rain. If I weren't a weather geek who has internet access and checks the radar and forecasts nearly daily, I wouldn't have known anything was headed our way until about 7pm, when the local cell provider Digicel sent a everyone a text saying there was a tropical storm warning. Based on the lack of news, peoples attitudes, and the NOAA weather updates, I emailed folks who might worry and told them to ignore the media hyperbole, and that I, and the island would be fine. Which is what everyone here thought as well. The rest of the weekend, there were no more messages, not on the radio, the TV or anything... no communication. People had no idea what was coming until it hit.

#2- A hurricane is as unpredictable as the... weather.
So, not surprisingly, Tropical Storm Tomas had a mind of his own, and decided not to follow the predictions of the meteorologists. By 8pm on Friday, it was clear that Tomas was strengthening rapidly, both on NOAA's webpage, and from the sounds outside my windows, even though it was still over a hundred miles away.  This trend continued, for the rest of the weekend, Tomas intensified quickly, growing stronger and larger by the hour. This was unfortunately combined with the storm slowing down its travel from 20-30 mph to crawling along at 12 mph. So instead of passing by late Saturday afternoon, Tomas and then the hurricanes powerful tail, pounded St. Lucia until about 5am on Sunday morning.

#3- Severe drought + tropical depression + hurricane = landslides, erosion and geophysical instability

This year St. Lucia has been suffering the worst drought in decades. Though most areas have recovered from the drought, the water tables and river beds were not yet back to capacity. Same goes for the banana farming sector, farmers have just seen their crops recovering in the past month from the wasting and low production rendered by the drought. You may remember I mentioned that there was an intense amount of rain when I first arrived in early October from a tropical depression that later became Hurricane Otto. Well soon-to-be Otto dumped buckets of rain on the island, causing massive flooding in some areas. Tomas dumped an even greater amount of rain, combined with strong winds. Thus, severe drought + tropical depression + hurricane = landslides, erosion and geophysical instability. The videos below give some indication of the degree to which slippage and flooding have impacted mainly the southern part of the island (which by the way, is where most of the population and 90% of the farming takes place).

#4 Substandard buildings, shelters and roads
This is a pretty obvious and common problem, many of the homes and buildings here are simply not built with materials or design that can easily withstand the power of a hurricane. There are also many that did and can, but to construct these is costly and results (as usual) in an uneven distribution of those with the least loosing the most. In the road and bridges dept, St. Lucia has been making great efforts to improve their highways and to a great outcome in general. However, there is still only one main road that makes a P around the island, with the tail extending up north by me. Presently, due to landslides, bridge collapses and other road issues, the island is divided into 1/3's and the only way to get around is via the sea.

The results-
Personally, got along through the hurricane just fine. My apartment suffered some flooding, but the kitchen stayed dry, so I just "slept" in there.  Yes, I was scared. Not so much that I thought I was going to come to bodily harm per say, more just because I was sitting by myself in a dark house while a hurricane whipped about for 36 hours. The neighbor's lost part of their roof, trees fell down, a window broke upstairs and other things generally broke or became dislodged. It was generally very noisy, and I am so thankful that I was able to text with Jul, who was my link to information (and taught herself hurricane math to do this more accurately), since the power, radio and local phone calls shut down once the storm really got going around 7am Sat.

On Sunday morning as we gingerly emerged from our homes in my neighborhood, people immediately began to help each other clean up. As we began to sweep, mop and towel sop the water up out of my apartment, my neighbor (who had lost her roof prior to the bulk of the storm and consequently had inches of rain blown into her home) turned to me and said "I'm ok, you're ok, to hell with everything else...". This is how we have to take these things she assured me. We spent all day getting water of the 3 houses and I can assure that the best and most effective method is to throw down medium sized towels and then wring them out into a bucket.

Monday the power came back on, and since then, I've been calling folks across the island and hearing reports and the news is not good at all. Many people lost their lives, including a an entire family who's home was carried by a landslide across a highway and into a deep ravine on the other side. All of the farmers I work with, and pretty much all of them on the island have lost their entire crops. They tell me it will take them 6-7 months before they will be able to harvest and ship bananas as normal, meaning they will be without income for that period. Others have lost their farms entirely due tot eh landslides, and will not be able to continue in the business. The major airport is still closed and one of the 2 largest water reserves has been damaged, so a water shortage is forecast for the near future. 


Many things will recover quickly, in the next few weeks. Temporary bridges are already being constructed until long term construction can commence, but for many people, and especially those in the banana industry, the destruction of Tomas is going to be felt for a long time to come. I cannot begin to express their voices as farmers have told me their farms are gone. Suffice it to say, Friday afternoon, with no warning of a pending storm, they knocked off work to enjoy Jounen Kwéyòl, the national holiday weekend celebrating St. Lucian culture and heritage before harvesting their bananas on Monday and Tuesday. Instead of creole food, language and music, Saturday and Sunday brought massive destruction to peoples homes and their livelihoods, leaving farmers families facing months of rebuilding if they are lucky, and the loss of a way of life if they cannot survive the rebuilding period.

I'm going out to visit farms and survey the damage tomorrow with the president of one of the Fairtrade groups I work with. I will post those pictures soon. In the meanwhile, here are a few from my area:

Sat morning


My neighbor's roof blowing up, right before it blew off...

No power means cooking by candlelight!


Sat afternoon I had to go outside to explore a little!

My bedroom- I was trying to stem the flow w/ towels and sheets before I realized water was pouring into every room except the kitchen.

Me- amusing myself in the middle of the night in the dark sometime late Sat night/early Sun morning...

Dry bed!

Tree down next to my house- glad it fell that way- behind or to the left and it would have hit someone's house...

Banana plants, not being actual trees, crumple with heavy wind

Friday, October 22, 2010

The exoticism of everyday life

They say of anthropologists that we have a tendency to make the familiar strange and the strange familiar. However I'm sure anyone who has moved to another country can attest to how quickly the familiar becomes strange. Everyday choices, routines and actions become wrapped in a veil of mystery and generally take a lot longer!  Over the past few weeks, I've been adjusting to these shifts. To share a few-
How long does it take to wait for the minibus to fill up? Anywhere from 10-45 minutes depending on the time of day.
What type of laundry soap so I like to buy here? No idea, but my current selection smells like moth balls and hand lotion. 
How do I learn to cook new vegetables and adapt old recipes to the available produce or eat exotic fruits? still working on this one, but I can tell you that "Golden Apples" have thorn-like protrusions from the pit and should be tackled with a knife, and cooking with cucumbers will never be a good substitute for zucchini. 
What is a good price for anything?!? Uhhh? A basic can opener costs $29.99 EC ($11.19 USD), so far I have been making do without one...
 
Grocery shopping is something that becomes immediately necessary to figure out, unless you want to live on peanut butter, crackers and bananas (my default travel foods) for very long. I can buy most, but not all fruits and veggies at the open air produce market in Castries, but this involves a 3 hour trip at minimum. Then the are the logistics of only buying as much as I would like to carry on the 1 mile walk after I get off the minibus. Finally there are the challenges of figuring out where and when to buy certain things. For example, there is a shortage of tomatoes on the island, they had a terrible drought earlier in the year, followed by an island-wide blight, so they are a rarity.

Chicken, is another story entirely. Chickens are everywhere here- everyone owns a few, there are roosters crowing at all hours of the night, I overheard a farmer ordering 5,000 for his farm last week, and I have yet to go anywhere with out my every move being documented by the Wary Chicken Brigade of St. Lucia. All this being noted, finding chicken to buy for cooking that isn't imported from the US or further, has been exceedingly difficult. My landlord's assistant passed on some insider knowledge, assuring me that I simply have to go to a specific grocery store by 7:30am on a Friday morning and I'll find some... that is so not happening, I'm just not that into chicken.
Luckily, while out for a run, I stumbled onto a solution- my friendly neighborhood Meat Palace!
The arrow is actually pointing in the exact opposite direction of the "Palace"... I love this place!

This is the official Meat Palace dog, "Black Boy" he's very friendly!
The owners are sweet, and they sell everything from eggs and limes to all sorts of fresh, frozen and dried meats and fish.

Even doing laundry requires new habits, such as washing everything early enough in the morning to give clothes time to dry, learning to shake any centipedes that have crawled into them out *before* bring back in the house, and avoiding the ant nest of biting/stinging ants that is strategically located under prime laundry line!

The stick in the upper right hand of this photo is instrumental to supporting the intricate laundry line strung up under my apartment
So no matter where you are, learning how to perform the everyday things in life just generally take up a lot of time at first and things seems novel and exciting and can be exhausting. I'm experiencing challenges and fun discoveries almost daily at this point, but sometimes the most important thing is knowing when to call it quits for the day and enjoy a beer on the balcony under the moon and clouds...


goodnight!

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Leaping Lizards!

Introducing the lizards, anoles and geckos in my life...  

Trying to run in the front door lizard!


Lizard in my top dresser drawer...

again b/c he's so funny and was actually kinda stuck.

For anyone who missed him the first time around, the kitchen sink anole!

Can you find the lizard among the limes, green mangos and a giant avacado?


Kitchen anole on patrol of the counter top!

Kitchen anole walks the tightrope

Front door gecko, he likes to sit there and catch ants as they steam by :)


Anole in the shower!

Teeny, tiny, baby gecko- I have to watch where ever I step in the hallway and bathroom because he likes to hang out on the floor!

Fieldwork begins in earnest for me this week, so hopefully I'll have some interesting updates in a few days!

Friday, October 8, 2010

Beausejour and the Bay Walk Mall


So now the Tropical Storm Otto has finally meandered his way up north and is no longer dumping buckets of rain on me, I've been spending a lot more time outside. I'm living on the north end of the island, in an area called Beausejour (pronounced Beau-Say-Jou), here is a Google Map Link to my general area, I live to the left of the horse shoe shaped lakes and the cricket stadium. 

First, I must disclose that I totally lucked out with my apartment, I am living in one of the nicest neighborhoods on the island. We have street lights (which is good because it is pretty much dark by 6pm year round), it is fairly quite, and has blend of homes, some of which are the nicest homes I've seen here. I've included a few of my neighbor's houses:

Further up the hillside from me
It is typical for houses here to be very colorful,

and to have concrete ornaments as decorations
   
more cement statues 
 the detailing is even in fences, porch railings and the like 



My favorite house in the neighborhood!

Neighbor with the best  vegetable garden (more on that another day)

House with neat porch railings

House for sale in case anyone wants to come be my neighbor!

My house! That is its' red roof up on top of the hill :)

One thing that I really like about my neighborhood and much of St. Lucia is that there *seems* to be an active resistance to overt physical stratification within neighborhoods, beaches and yes, even the Bay Walk Mall! For example, the house that my apartment is attached to is very large and well cared for, while the house below, just across the street, is less so.
My next-door neighbor's have no color on their house, I'm excited to see if they paint!

Likewise, this enormous palace like home:
Huge house about half a mile from me, more orange that this photo suggests...
Is right next-door to this more modest and adorable one!
Next-door neighbor to the huge orange house- this house is not actually overgrown, it just has lots of plants that the owner grows in the front yard- I'm guessing it is to block the view of the Orange Monstrosity across the street ;)

St. Lucia is one of the few countries in the Caribbean that created laws to keep all beaches open to the public, which is a huge statement, because in many tropical vacation destinations, large internationally owned resort chains like Sandals privatize all the best beach spots in the country, leaving the citizens of that place to swim in the dangerous or crappy areas that don't appeal to tourists.

The brand new Bay Walk Mall of recent fame, is another example of this. The architect says he designed the Mall with Lucians in mind first, Tourists second, but that ultimately, it is supposed to be a dual use space, that keeps locals and tourists mixed. This results in the mall having really expensive diamond jewelery stores,  a few doors down from Church's Chicken, a favorite with locals, and open until 2am!

With all the promotion and commotion over the new mall, I decided to go see it yesterday. I was highly amused to find that it is not actually complete yet, these guys are painting the tiles in the center of the mall's open air courtyard. The mall itself is 3 stories high and will eventually hold about 70 stores, but only 20 are presently occupied and open for business. I wonder if there will be a second "Grand Opening" when the construction is completed and all the shops are open?

These painters were using a really neat template to create the very intricate tile design. I'll post an updated photo of their work once it is completed.     

Monday, October 4, 2010

My new place!







My favorite anole- he lives by my kitchen sink and sometimes hangs out in the dish rack!

Kitchen

Kitchen from the dining area, lace and checked curtains are in traditional St. Lucian style

Dining area, I'm thinking of putting a small desk under the bulletin board...

Living room, the furniture again is very typical of St. Lucia

Balcony off the living room, my favorite part of the house!

This is where I like to read and have breakfast...

Here's why, the view is great!

more view...

Fruit trees in the backyard (this is a sour orange tree)


Another, I'm not sure what kind it is yet though...

Guest bedroom for anyone who comes to visit me ;)

Bathroom
My bedroom

Another view...
 So as you can see, I really lucked out with this place, it is totally sweet! My landlord is a St. Lucian man who is presently living in England, and he seems very nice. He even had some fresh fruit, bread and butted waiting for me when I arrived :) I'll give an update on the nighborhood and local plants in a few days!