Sunday, November 28, 2010

It's beginnning to look a lot like Christmas, despite the coconut trees!

So,  I'll be the first to admit, I'm a total cheese-ball when it comes to Christmas, I love the music, take great joy in wrapping gifts (trying to match the pattern on the paper and of course adding ribbon and bows when possible),  I adore gift shopping in a busy store or mall, sneaking around with surprises, advent calendars, parties, decorations... pretty much everything!

Since I'll be spending Christmas here in St. Lucia, I've been asking around about what I can expect, and it turns out, Christmas is pretty popular here, though there are some distinct differences. Perfect! The number one thing that is mentioned whenever I ask a local about holiday celebrations is "rum" the context may vary, "rum cake", "rum balls", "spiced rum", a "nip of rum at the neighbors"... you get the picture.

I found this picture online of the practice in Trinidad to give you more of a visual
My favorite unexpected tradition is "Bamboo Bursting" which starts in mid-November. It takes place mainly on the weekends and sounds like a minor army is trying to invade my neighborhood. I was thankful for hearing about this practice before the fun began. Essentially pre-teen and teenage boys go out with their friends, find the most promising bamboo stalks and chop them down. Then they add kerosene, an air fuse (blowing into a hole while introducing a match) and viola- a very noisy explosion that can result in singed eyebrows and howls of appreciation from one's friends.

Decorations and music thus far seem to be fairly similar, the radios are full of climate specific songs such as "Walking in a Winter Wonderland" which to me are just amusing given that we are driving by coconut and palm trees while it's a balmy 85F outside, but they are crooned by people on the bus with gusto. The local ice cream truck (a pick-up with a freezer in the back) has joined in by playing Silent Night as it makes its rounds, I've never thought of that song as a "come and get your ice cream kids!" sort of tune, but it seems to work :)
Papa Jab
 Another very fun tradition is that of Papa Jab and the Pai Banan. Now any of you who have had the pleasure of reading David Sedaris' Six To Eight Black Men will have an appreciation for the genre of scaring children for Christmas,  if you have not, you should definitely read it after you are finished with this post. I haven't actually seen the dance yet, but I did track down a few photos and from talking with friends and reading a blog-type post, here is what I know about the tradition: Papa Jab is a devil like character who carries a pitchfork, is red and has horns.  He dances in a scary manner, chases children, and when encouraged by parents, will grab a child who has been reported for having bad behavior and publicly spanks them (more for show and humiliation than anything else). The Pai Banan are accompanying dancers that travel around with Papa Jab, they are dressed in costumes made from dried banana leaves that have been dyed bright colors and they often walk on stilts and play musical instruments. The whole group travel around a community and then people gather in the center of the community to watch the show. This can happen in the build up to Christmas through to New Year's Day. I'm really looking forward to seeing this when it happens!!!
Pai Banan dancing in Castries
Christmas cards are also big here, and just in case anyone out there is thinking of sending Christmas cards my way- wink wink! hint hint! ;) address them in the following manner:
Name
C/O Gros Islet Post Office
Massade
Gros Islet, St. Lucia
West Indies
 Don't send anything important though and expect a minimum of 3 weeks to arrive and most likely more, because this is how organized the post office is:

 




Last but certainly not least, food! Food is of course a very important part of most holiday celebrations, St. Lucia being no exception. The most popular thing here is the Christmas Fruit Cake aka "Rum Cake". I'm planning to try making it, though I'm a little behind on soaking the fruit in rum for up to 3 months! I'll try to share more recipes once I learn about them.
Here is a recipe for it:

INGREDIENTS:
1lb / 2cups currants
1lb / 3cups raisins
8oz / 1cup prunes
2/3 cup mixed peel
14 oz / 2 ¼ cups dark soft brown sugar
5ml / 1tsp mixed spice
½ pint / 1 ¼ cups sherry
90ml / 6tbsp rum, plus more if needed
2 cups softened butter
10 eggs beaten
1 lb / 4 cups self-raising flour
5 ml /1 tsp vanilla essence

DIRECTIONS:
Wash the currants, raisins, prunes and mixed peel, then pat dry. Place in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Transfer to a large, clean jar or bowl, add 115g/4 oz of the sugar, the mixed spice, rum and sherry. Mix very well and then cover with a lid and set aside for anything from 2 weeks to 3 months - the longer it is left the better the flavor will be.  Stir the fruit mixture occasionally and keep covered, adding more alcohol if you like. Preheat the oven to 160ºC/325ºF/Gas mark Grease and line a 25cm/10in round cake tin with a double layer of greaseproof paper. Sift the flour, set aside. Cream together the butter and remaining sugar and beat in the eggs until the mixture is smooth and creamy.
 Add the fruit mixture, then gradually stir in the flour and vanilla essence. Mix well, adding 15-30ml/1-2 tbsp sherry if the mixture is too stiff; it should just fall off the back of the spoon, but should not be too runny. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake until done. 



Happy holiday season everyone!!!

Thursday, November 25, 2010

The trans-Caela express

I headed back stateside last week to attend a conference in New Orleans- the American Anthropology Association annual conference- I had a wonderful time with great talks and lots of hanging out with so many people I've been missing! I even got to have a late night breakfast with my cousin Paul who lives in NOLA. Aside from my lack of interest in food since leaving the Big Easy, it was a very successful and enjoyable trip!

Before I left St. Lucia, the word spread among the folks that I see here on a daily basis and they accordingly started making requests for items that they would like me to bring back from the states. The following is an incomplete list of items that I have been asked to return with: 
 
Brita water filter refill pack
Toiletries (shampoo is ridiculous expensive here)
External hard drive enclosure
Cord to connect a computer to a TV
Cell phone- quad band, unlocked, flip phone for under $50 bucks
Ink Cartridges for a an HP printer Large cotton underwear (3 back)- the kind to "cover your boobli in full" (motions hands over rump)
Green capri pants size 16 (like the kind I own and that I bought in 2002, thanks for the compliment, but no idea where to find them)
White shirt loose fitting, size large
Voice recorder, digital, "just like yours"


These items are all for folks who want to buy the items, and they are just a lot cheaper in the US then in St. Lucia. Though I was unsuccessful in procuring a few of them, their new owners should be happy in general.


In a completely different vain of carrying goods- my friend Beth organized a supply drive to collect items and donations for relief for those hit hardest by hurricane Tomas. I want to extend a HUGE thank you to Beth, and to all of the wonderful people who donated, sending me staggering back to St. Lucia with 2 giant bags of supplies- exactly 100lbs of luggage!


I have received some questions about the supplies and need down here, and for those of you who missed this round, but would like to do something, contact me- Julianna will be visiting in mid-December. Schools finally reopened here on Monday, and school supplies are topping the donations list this week. 


I flew back to St. Lucia yesterday and made a fairly uneventful (and free!!!) trip across the island thanks to rides from a friend of a friend, a friend and the guy who I'm getting the car from. Today is Thanksgiving in the states, and I am so, so thankful to have the family and friends I missing today!

Monday, November 15, 2010

Update and Pictures from 1-2 weeks after Tomas

So it has been a while since I've posted, I've actually written several entries, but then decided not to post them. It is hard to describe the concurrence of fallout from the hurricane and the practices of everyday life. When disasters strike, people on the outside mainly see the terrible tragedies through the newspapers and the headlines, and as the photos below show- there are plenty of difficult things going on right now. I'm amazed and fascinated by how quickly a new "normal" was established and people adjust to a new set of living conditions and demands. Obviously, many things are not functioning as normal, but teens continue to go out on dates, families gather at the beach for picnics, the shops that are open have begun displaying Christmas decorations and gifts, jokes are made and celebrations continue in the midst of the daily searches for water, which can consume hours of time for those who don't have a rain barrel (I fortunately do), schools remain closed, and the clean up continues.


So things are hard for many, but life continues and this is most reassuring.  The following are photos I've taken in the last few days...

The blue bags are where bunches of bananas were growing- the wind and rain snaps the plans at the base, completely destroying the plant and fruit.

We have been without running water since Nov. 1, so bathrooms are closed everywhere, as are many restaurants and other public places.
Sunset over Rodney Bay

A good portion of the day was spent washing mud off of everything you can imagine with this water channeled from the drainage ditch up hill of this farmer's house- this water is the source of water for everyone in the town...



Taking a break from hurricane clean up for some fresh coconut water to drink


Cleaning is way more fun when you hijack the outsiders sunglasses :)
The area around above this culvert- about 50 yards above and 40 below was part of a landslide that buried this family's house in almost 8 feet of sopping mud and trash.
The garbage that collected and backed-up the water flowing through the drain contributed to the flooding nationwide

Yummy lunch- boiled green bananas and pork!



The tools for post Tomas cleaning: barrels of water, brooms, scrub brushes and buckets

The silty-clay mud gets everywhere, this drill was fully assembled during the storm, part way through cleaning, it still looks as though the casing was buried in pieces.


The remains of a packing shed where bananas go on harvest day.


This river has cut a completely new path more than 40 yards from the old one. This whole area used to be several feet higher and planted with fruit.

Small landslide and river destruction

Another pack shed

The river carried heavy debris far into the field,  all of this are used to be bananas in neat furrows





The beautiful late afternoon sky above this ruined banana plot


The daily hunt for water- many people climbed the side of the mountain to wait in line in order to fill up buckets/pans/bottle/jugs with this water that runs slowly, but steadily from a fresh spring.


This pineapple farmers' fruits survived the storm, but the hotels he sells them to are closed due to damages, so he has taken to driving all over the island trying to sell what he can from the back of his truck. He usually produces 10,000 pounds/ month...

Like after a snowstorm- all the displaced mud from the flooding edges the roads only it won't be melting away

People walking uphill to a water source through a collapsed area of highway- this types of collapses are all over the islands main road.

The area in front of the house used to extend to the road..

Each banana plant should have appx 30 leaves... post storm 2-3.

ravaged banana plants- this entire farm will have to be cleared and replanted

and here

and here- this entire area used to be planted

This building is a school- the area in front of it is now a river that has channeled a new path from behind the school to in front, wiping out the road, green houses and soccer field that used to occupy that space.

more piled up dirt


A bridge for the main highway used to cover the space over this ravine...


This hillside is in the rain-forest and it used to be incredibly lush with hardwoods, ferns and other vegetation...

This massive landslide covers twice as much of the side of the mountain then shown in this photo, workers have been working around the clock to clear the road and re-stabilize the hillsides.

Another source of water...



There are many great stories happening here as well, such as the local ice cream factory, immediately stopped making ice cream following Tomas, and instead began preparing meals, packing them up and shipping them to the hardest hit areas daily. I will try to pose some more soon!

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

"I'm ok, you're ok, to hell with everything else..."

Hello and sorry for the rather lengthy post but I do hope you'll take the time to read the whole thing now!
So a brief recap for those of you who may not have heard, from late evening on Friday to the wee hours on Sunday morning, Hurricane Tomas hit St. Lucia. More than just being a category 1 (I've heard it reached 2 at some point, but can't find that in writing) hurricane, folks are saying that this is the worst hurricane devastation to hit the country in over 20 years. There are a number of reasons why this was so disastrous- here is what happened and why:

#1- Preparation and warning
Until later Friday afternoon, Tomas was not even designated a tropical storm, and was expected to pass a lot further south. This made me feel rather silly on Friday afternoon for going to the grocery and stocking up on fresh water and non-perishable food, but I figured I'd follow the "better safe than sorry" adage. Folks around here were entirely nonchalant about the situation, and there were no locally broadcast warnings. One neighbor even laughed at me and said we would only get a little bit of rain. If I weren't a weather geek who has internet access and checks the radar and forecasts nearly daily, I wouldn't have known anything was headed our way until about 7pm, when the local cell provider Digicel sent a everyone a text saying there was a tropical storm warning. Based on the lack of news, peoples attitudes, and the NOAA weather updates, I emailed folks who might worry and told them to ignore the media hyperbole, and that I, and the island would be fine. Which is what everyone here thought as well. The rest of the weekend, there were no more messages, not on the radio, the TV or anything... no communication. People had no idea what was coming until it hit.

#2- A hurricane is as unpredictable as the... weather.
So, not surprisingly, Tropical Storm Tomas had a mind of his own, and decided not to follow the predictions of the meteorologists. By 8pm on Friday, it was clear that Tomas was strengthening rapidly, both on NOAA's webpage, and from the sounds outside my windows, even though it was still over a hundred miles away.  This trend continued, for the rest of the weekend, Tomas intensified quickly, growing stronger and larger by the hour. This was unfortunately combined with the storm slowing down its travel from 20-30 mph to crawling along at 12 mph. So instead of passing by late Saturday afternoon, Tomas and then the hurricanes powerful tail, pounded St. Lucia until about 5am on Sunday morning.

#3- Severe drought + tropical depression + hurricane = landslides, erosion and geophysical instability

This year St. Lucia has been suffering the worst drought in decades. Though most areas have recovered from the drought, the water tables and river beds were not yet back to capacity. Same goes for the banana farming sector, farmers have just seen their crops recovering in the past month from the wasting and low production rendered by the drought. You may remember I mentioned that there was an intense amount of rain when I first arrived in early October from a tropical depression that later became Hurricane Otto. Well soon-to-be Otto dumped buckets of rain on the island, causing massive flooding in some areas. Tomas dumped an even greater amount of rain, combined with strong winds. Thus, severe drought + tropical depression + hurricane = landslides, erosion and geophysical instability. The videos below give some indication of the degree to which slippage and flooding have impacted mainly the southern part of the island (which by the way, is where most of the population and 90% of the farming takes place).

#4 Substandard buildings, shelters and roads
This is a pretty obvious and common problem, many of the homes and buildings here are simply not built with materials or design that can easily withstand the power of a hurricane. There are also many that did and can, but to construct these is costly and results (as usual) in an uneven distribution of those with the least loosing the most. In the road and bridges dept, St. Lucia has been making great efforts to improve their highways and to a great outcome in general. However, there is still only one main road that makes a P around the island, with the tail extending up north by me. Presently, due to landslides, bridge collapses and other road issues, the island is divided into 1/3's and the only way to get around is via the sea.

The results-
Personally, got along through the hurricane just fine. My apartment suffered some flooding, but the kitchen stayed dry, so I just "slept" in there.  Yes, I was scared. Not so much that I thought I was going to come to bodily harm per say, more just because I was sitting by myself in a dark house while a hurricane whipped about for 36 hours. The neighbor's lost part of their roof, trees fell down, a window broke upstairs and other things generally broke or became dislodged. It was generally very noisy, and I am so thankful that I was able to text with Jul, who was my link to information (and taught herself hurricane math to do this more accurately), since the power, radio and local phone calls shut down once the storm really got going around 7am Sat.

On Sunday morning as we gingerly emerged from our homes in my neighborhood, people immediately began to help each other clean up. As we began to sweep, mop and towel sop the water up out of my apartment, my neighbor (who had lost her roof prior to the bulk of the storm and consequently had inches of rain blown into her home) turned to me and said "I'm ok, you're ok, to hell with everything else...". This is how we have to take these things she assured me. We spent all day getting water of the 3 houses and I can assure that the best and most effective method is to throw down medium sized towels and then wring them out into a bucket.

Monday the power came back on, and since then, I've been calling folks across the island and hearing reports and the news is not good at all. Many people lost their lives, including a an entire family who's home was carried by a landslide across a highway and into a deep ravine on the other side. All of the farmers I work with, and pretty much all of them on the island have lost their entire crops. They tell me it will take them 6-7 months before they will be able to harvest and ship bananas as normal, meaning they will be without income for that period. Others have lost their farms entirely due tot eh landslides, and will not be able to continue in the business. The major airport is still closed and one of the 2 largest water reserves has been damaged, so a water shortage is forecast for the near future. 


Many things will recover quickly, in the next few weeks. Temporary bridges are already being constructed until long term construction can commence, but for many people, and especially those in the banana industry, the destruction of Tomas is going to be felt for a long time to come. I cannot begin to express their voices as farmers have told me their farms are gone. Suffice it to say, Friday afternoon, with no warning of a pending storm, they knocked off work to enjoy Jounen Kwéyòl, the national holiday weekend celebrating St. Lucian culture and heritage before harvesting their bananas on Monday and Tuesday. Instead of creole food, language and music, Saturday and Sunday brought massive destruction to peoples homes and their livelihoods, leaving farmers families facing months of rebuilding if they are lucky, and the loss of a way of life if they cannot survive the rebuilding period.

I'm going out to visit farms and survey the damage tomorrow with the president of one of the Fairtrade groups I work with. I will post those pictures soon. In the meanwhile, here are a few from my area:

Sat morning


My neighbor's roof blowing up, right before it blew off...

No power means cooking by candlelight!


Sat afternoon I had to go outside to explore a little!

My bedroom- I was trying to stem the flow w/ towels and sheets before I realized water was pouring into every room except the kitchen.

Me- amusing myself in the middle of the night in the dark sometime late Sat night/early Sun morning...

Dry bed!

Tree down next to my house- glad it fell that way- behind or to the left and it would have hit someone's house...

Banana plants, not being actual trees, crumple with heavy wind